Haena State Park is one of the most popular state parks on the hawaiian island of Kauai. And with good reason. Beautiful white sand beaches surrounded by lush cliffs and waterfalls… what’s not to like? The planning process, that’s what. First came the 2018 floods that devastated the area, followed by the benefits from reduced tourists numbers during the pandemic. This led to the introduction of a permit system to visit the park. Planning a trip to Haena State Park is a test in patience, but those willing to endure it will be greatly rewarded.
In this guide I cover everything there is to see and do, as well as all the logistics from permits to transportation that you need to consider for a smooth and enjoyable visit.
Things to do in Haena State Park
In the span of thirty minutes you can walk through beautiful taro fields, traverse a lush forest, and be in the ocean looking at humuhumunukunukuapua’a. Haena State Park is not that big a park, but there are plenty of things to do for nature lovers.
Ke’e beach
Ke’e is a beautiful white sand beach protected by a reef. It is an excellent spot for swimming as well as snorkelling. I wouldn’t blame you for spending your day at the park not going any further than this! There are lifeguards, restrooms and showers available. Reservations are required for entry.
If you decide to pay Ke’e beach a visit, please be respectful of the environment. Use reef-safe sunscreen (or even better, no sunscreen at all – use a rash guard instead); keep your distance and don’t interact with wildlife, especially protected species; don’t step on the reef.
Hike to Hanakāpī’ai beach
If it’s swimming and/or snorkelling that you are after, don’t let the name fool you: it’s only Ke’e beach that you want. If on the other hand, you’d like to get a taste for the rainforest and sea cliffs (and don’t mind getting some exercise in), the hike to Hanakāpī’ai beach is a must-do. Starting at Ke’e beach, it’s a 4 mile (6.4 km) round hike. The view of the pristine remote beach hidden away among the lush green mountains is arguably the crown jewel of Haena State Park.
Hike to Hanakāpī’ai falls
If when arriving at Hanakāpī’ai beach you are still craving more, you can continue on hiking all the way to Hanakāpī’ai falls. It’s another 2 miles to reach the waterfall from Hanakāpī’ai beach and an 8 mile (13 km) round hike from Ke’e beach. While I’d define the hike to Hanakāpī’ai beach as moderate, the hike to the falls is certainly strenuous. Only a small percentage of those that reach the beach continue on to the falls, at least in my singular experience. Therefore you’ll be rewarded not only by the spectacular sight of the waterfall towering over the mountain at the end, but by also getting the chance to connect with Kauai’s mauna (mountains) on a more personal and peaceful level.
There are stream crossings to reach Hanakāpī’ai beach as well as the falls. Only a relatively easy one for the beach, many more to reach the falls. These may be simply a little daunting for the uninitiated, or extremely dangerous if you don’t heed the posted warnings, and try to cross in unfavourable conditions. Rescues in this area are unfortunately not unheard of. Even though it may not seem like a very long hike, you’ll be hiking in a very wild and remote area, with no phone reception or staff around. Plan accordingly for an enjoyable experience.
Napali Coast State Wilderness park: hike the Kalalau trail (22 miles)
For the adventure seekers, this is the ultimate date with Kauai. Kalalau is a remote valley only reachable via kayak or on foot. In the 20th century it used to be home to native Hawaiians living off taro farming, which sadly is no longer the case. These days it is home to a pristine beach; beautiful towering mountains; a small waterfall; some illegal squatters, and a small campground for visitors wanting to reconnect with mother nature. It is considered one of the most spectacular hikes in the world. Also one of the most dangerous. I can vouch for both the beauty and the dangers!
Going any further than Hanakāpī’ai requires an additional overnight permit.
How to get to Haena State Park
There are two main options for visitors to Haena State Park: to drive in yourself, or take a shuttle bus.
Shuttle Bus
I’m an advocate for taking the shuttle for many reasons:
- Traffic on the north shore is an issue. The best thing you could do for locals is not add to that by driving your rental car if it’s not necessary. That’s the main reason why we opted to use the shuttle instead of using our rental car.
- It’s hard to navigate all the necessary permits to enter the park. When you book your shuttle ticket, it automatically includes the entry permit to the park, so you get everything you need with a single reservation. The price is 35$, for both transport and entry.
- We used the shuttle a couple of times and had an excellent experience. I even mixed up my reservation time (thank you jet-lag) and they were very accommodating, even though they didn’t have to be. Also, the majority of employees are kanaka maoli (native hawaiians), and I’d like to think using the shuttle supports them.
You can buy your shuttle tickets here. There is a cap on visitor numbers and limited seating per time slot, so I recommend booking in advance. At the time of writing, you can secure your booking up to 30 days in advance.
Drive yourself
If you do not want to take the shuttle for whatever reason, your other option is to drive yourself. Parking is limited to 70 slots for visitors and they require advanced timed parking reservations (there are morning, afternoon and evening slots). You can buy your parking reservation and park entry here. They also sell out quickly and can be secured up to 30 days in advance.
Alternatively, you could arrange a drop off. Keep in mind though that Uber does not really operate in North Shore, and there is no phone reception/internet in the park to call for pick up.
Other permits required
If you are not planning on going further than Hanakāpī’ai and you have already secured either a shuttle booking or a parking reservation, you don’t need any further permits. You have everything you need for visiting Haena State Park.
If you are planning on visiting with a resident in their car, or are walking/biking/getting a drop off, you need to book park entry. It costs 5$ and you can do it here.
If you are planning on hiking Kalalau trail or going any further than Hanakāpī’ai, you will need overnight camping permits. You can attempt to get them here. Kalalau trail permits are extremely hard to come by. At the time of writing, you can attempt to get them up to 30 days in advance. As of March 15th 2022, that window will extend to 90 days. You can book for a maximum of five consecutive nights and it’ll set you back 35$ per person per night if you are not a resident. If you are in possession of an overnight camping permit, you do not need any further permits to access Haena State Park itself. What you might need though, is overnight parking at the trailhead, which you can book here.
What to bring to Haena State Park
Finally, once you have made the decision to visit the park and have secured all the necessary park reservations, you might be wondering what to bring. Here is my advice:
- Reef-safe sunscreen/hat/sunglasses. The sun is no joke, and even if you are going to be hiking, you will be exposed to the sun most of the time.
- Snorkel gear. If you are planning on snorkelling, make sure to secure some gear before arriving. There are no rentals in the park.
- Food and water/water filter. You will not find any food stands or any other kind of amenities in the park, so pack in whatever you think you will need for the day, plus some extra. Leptospira (the causative agent for leptospirosis) has been reported in the water in Kauai, so do not drink from the streams without filtering, and watch out for cuts.
- Sturdy hiking footwear. None of the hiking trails are easy, so don’t make the mistake of treating this as your average cliff stroll. It is extremely muddy. I saw some locals hiking barefoot, so to each their own… But I would not want to be the haole (foreigner) that needs a helicopter rescue because I slipped hiking on flip-flops.
- Raincoat. Weather in the north shore is unpredictable and it can get very wet. So if you are planning on hiking, a light raincoat wouldn’t be amiss.
- Good attitude. Last but not least! Be flexible: if at any point you start to feel weary of the hike, turn around; help people in need of assistance; stick to the trails; follow leave no trace and good hiking principles.
Haena State Park is a sliver of paradise and I feel very fortunate and thankful to have had the chance to see it for myself. The Haena ahupua’a holds sacred spaces for kanaka maoli, so I hope you treat it with the respect it deserves during your visit. If you are looking for information not covered in this guide, feel free to drop a comment with your questions and I’d be glad to help you out!
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